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MEATliquor restaurant review: This central London diner continues ...
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The menu succeeds in amusing with its ‘named’ dishes, and covers the fairly well marked out territory of I had been advised (perhaps even instructed) to order the Dead Hippie (two burgers, ‘dead hippie sauce’, gherkins, cheese) as well as the spicy wings.
To go too deep into how the food was is probably unnecessary – it’s burgers, chips and chicken wings.
The chicken wings made me happy on two levels – the first was the blue cheese dip which wasn’t afraid to stay on the ‘cheese’ side of ‘blue’, and the fact that they were what I call ‘half’ wings – the type you get in a chicken shop and not with that weird leggy bit attached (Take note Bodeans!)
The chili cheese fries (which almost didn’t get ordered due to the presence of ‘Phili’ cheese fries, with shaved rump steak bits on) were the highlight for me – the presentation is great, the levels of spice to meat to cheese to chip is great, and the portion size is great for two.
As Central London gradually creeps closer to Diner-saturation, MEATliquor continues to thrive, thanks to the holy trinity of good food, good booze and good service.
Meatliquor, London W1, restaurant review - Telegraph
food value ambience drinks
In the present context, what this means is that by the time you get to read about some hot new trend in restaurant culture in a broadsheet newspaper, it’s unlikely to be either thrillingly new, or searingly hot: you need to frequent the food blogs for that.
In fact, for a good benchmark of how fashionable your chosen restaurant is, simply tot up how many of your neighbours are 25-year-old hipsters in plaid shirts and Clark Kent specs, earnestly murmuring into dictaphones and taking surreptitious photographs of their dinner.
The menu is terse and a bit shouty (vegetable options, including a hearty, herby Greek salad made to a recipe devised by Yianni’s mum, are grouped under the heading “rabbit food”; a sublimely good reinvention of the Big Mac is called a “Dead Hippy”), and there is a general absence of the sort of flim-flam that usually adheres to the high-concept eaterie.
It is a synthesis, a resolution of two opposing principles: it insists on the primitive deliciousness of a good, authentic, unmucked-around-with, diner-style burger, but at the same time it understands that there’s a kind of metrosexual sophistication about making a pantomime of one’s primitivism (the boy in the Clark Kent specs and the plaid shirt opposite you in Chez Whojamaflip understands this too).
After cocktails (excellent, if a shade archly named, and pointlessly elaborate in a way the burgers aren’t – it turns out that a “New Cross Negroni” is almost, but not quite, as good as a Negroni), I had a “Green Chili Cheeseburger”, my associate a “Mushroom Swiss”.
Meat Liquor, London W1, restaurant review - Telegraph
food busyness value drinks
M said it was like being in a Budweiser advert, and C said, more admiringly, that it was like a bar in New Orleans – exciting, eventful and brilliant for a date because the sheer effort of everything would bond you in the face of adversity.
We were all starving, and ordered deep-fried pickles (£3) and chilli cheese fries (£5) while we waited for the famous burgers.
Again, if I can be middle-aged and spoilt for a second: the expense it takes to source 500 jam jars of the same shape for the purpose of drinking out of exceeds by far what it would take to go to Ikea and buy some bloody wine glasses.
The Audrey Hepburn features a fried egg, bacon and onion ring, plus chips (£8.75) As if 40 choices of burger, from blue cheese (£7.15) to mango salsa (£6.95), weren't enough, the flagship branch of this family-run chain also offers the option of free-range beef from Jimmy's Farm.
The marbled, rare-breed meat comes in a sourdough bap with caramelised-onion relish (£7.75) OK, so this is nothing like a burger bar, but the award-winning beef, lamb and game reared on this 16,500-acre estate make for delicious patties.
MEATliquor
London | MEATliquor
N1 | MEATliquor
MEATliquor restaurant review 2012 February London | American ...
food menu ambience cleanliness quietness drinks value
Recent years have seen a revival of interest in the common burger in London restaurants, with good versions to be found at Goodman, Burger & Lobster, Hawksmoor and (US owned) Bar Boulud, as well as at the Admiral Codrington.
MEATliquor aims at recreating a distinctly US style of burger, and indeed the restaurant has a very American feel to it.
The menu offers a range of burger options such as the “dead hippie” and “buffalo chicken burger”, and there is even a salad (“rabbit food”) and a few sweets such as key lime pie (sweets were £4).
Overall, while the décor and menu aims to be too achingly fashionable for my tastes, the burger and chips were enjoyable, and that is the main thing: good, sloppy fun.
Overall this is a reasonable destination if you want a good burger and fries and don’t mind the uncomfortable seating, the horror film décor, the loud swamp-rock music and the queue.
Meatliquor, London W1, restaurant review - Telegraph
food value ambience drinks
In the present context, what this means is that by the time you get to read about some hot new trend in restaurant culture in a broadsheet newspaper, it’s unlikely to be either thrillingly new, or searingly hot: you need to frequent the food blogs for that.
In fact, for a good benchmark of how fashionable your chosen restaurant is, simply tot up how many of your neighbours are 25-year-old hipsters in plaid shirts and Clark Kent specs, earnestly murmuring into dictaphones and taking surreptitious photographs of their dinner.
The menu is terse and a bit shouty (vegetable options, including a hearty, herby Greek salad made to a recipe devised by Yianni’s mum, are grouped under the heading “rabbit food”; a sublimely good reinvention of the Big Mac is called a “Dead Hippy”), and there is a general absence of the sort of flim-flam that usually adheres to the high-concept eaterie.
It is a synthesis, a resolution of two opposing principles: it insists on the primitive deliciousness of a good, authentic, unmucked-around-with, diner-style burger, but at the same time it understands that there’s a kind of metrosexual sophistication about making a pantomime of one’s primitivism (the boy in the Clark Kent specs and the plaid shirt opposite you in Chez Whojamaflip understands this too).
After cocktails (excellent, if a shade archly named, and pointlessly elaborate in a way the burgers aren’t – it turns out that a “New Cross Negroni” is almost, but not quite, as good as a Negroni), I had a “Green Chili Cheeseburger”, my associate a “Mushroom Swiss”.
Meat Liquor, London W1, restaurant review - Telegraph
food busyness value drinks
M said it was like being in a Budweiser advert, and C said, more admiringly, that it was like a bar in New Orleans – exciting, eventful and brilliant for a date because the sheer effort of everything would bond you in the face of adversity.
We were all starving, and ordered deep-fried pickles (£3) and chilli cheese fries (£5) while we waited for the famous burgers.
Again, if I can be middle-aged and spoilt for a second: the expense it takes to source 500 jam jars of the same shape for the purpose of drinking out of exceeds by far what it would take to go to Ikea and buy some bloody wine glasses.
The Audrey Hepburn features a fried egg, bacon and onion ring, plus chips (£8.75) As if 40 choices of burger, from blue cheese (£7.15) to mango salsa (£6.95), weren't enough, the flagship branch of this family-run chain also offers the option of free-range beef from Jimmy's Farm.
The marbled, rare-breed meat comes in a sourdough bap with caramelised-onion relish (£7.75) OK, so this is nothing like a burger bar, but the award-winning beef, lamb and game reared on this 16,500-acre estate make for delicious patties.